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in a remodel
with
TOP REVEAL
With existing drywall
If applicable, install your 45° inside
corners by using 4 of the 40 cove
pieces that have already been
modied to be used as a cove
piece as well as 45° inside corner.
9.
If you have a 45° outside corner, a
template on the side panel of the
box has been provided. Trace your
45° outside corner on to a piece of
½” plywood/OSB, cut it out and
then install.
At each corner of the room measure and mark the wall down for the ceiling 15 ¼”
plus the thickness of your top reveal (e.g. If you used a single 2x4, then you would
measure and mark the wall down from the ceiling 15 ¼” + 1 ½” = 16 ¾”).
1.
Snap a line at the marks on the wall around the entire perimeter of the room using
your chalk line.
2.
Using a utility knife/wallboard saw cut along the snap line on your wall and remove the
drywall between the snap line and the ceiling.
3.
At each corner of the room, measure and mark the wall down from the ceiling 11 ¼”
plus the thickness of your top reveal (e.g. If you used a single 2x4, then you would
measure and mark the wall down from the ceiling 11 ¼” + 1 ½” = 12 ¾”). Measure
and mark the ceiling out from the wall 11 ¼”.
4.
Using your marks as a guide, snap a line (with your chalk line) on the wall and on
the ceiling around the entire perimeter of the room.
5.
The 6 90° corners are reversible to t both inside and outside corners.
If you have an inside 90° corner, then the top halves will are outward
like the etchings of an arrow. If you have an outside 90° corner, then
the top halves will come to a point like the head of an arrow.
90
o
inside
corner
90
o
outside
corner
Block in-between the wall studs, if needed, to suciently attach the cove pieces in
the next step.
10.
Using a staple gun w/ 1” (or greater) staples/brads (PROs) or Screw Gun w/ 1” (or
greater) deck screws (DIYers), attach a cove piece butted to each side of each corner
(either touching the top of an inside corner or the bottom of an outside corner).
11.
Measure, mark and then attach all other cove pieces in-between the butted cove pieces
on each corner no more than 16” O.C.
Helpful Tip: For help spacing your cove pieces evenly between each corner visit
www.archkit.com/cove-spacing to watch our “How-To” video and see the mathematical formula.
12.
Where the joist/trusses run perpendicular to your top ledger, line up the sides of your top
ledger to the snap line on your ceiling and use a nail gun w/ 16d nails (PROs) or screw gun
w/ 3” (or greater) deck screws to fasten the top ledger securely through the drywall and
into the joists/trusses.
Where you do NOT have joist/trusses, use 1/8” x 3” Steel Mushroom-Head Toggle Bolts with 1/8”
x 1” washers to securely fasten your top ledger to your existing drywall ceiling (or any hardware capable of fastening a 2x4 to drywall).
Video: For more clarication, visit www.archkit.com/toggle-bolts to watch our “How-To” video which shows you how to securely
fasten your top ledger to your drywall ceiling using toggle bolts.
7.
Using a staple gun w/ 1” (or greater) staples/brads (PROs) or screw gun w/ 1”
(or greater) deck screws (DIYers), install your 90° inside and/or outside corners
(right angle) to align with your top ledgers and snap lines.
8.
Since you’ll need to fasten the top ledger securely to the ceiling, use a stud nder
(or check in the attic if you have access) to determine if there are joists/trusses in the
position and orientation where you’ll need to securely fasten the top ledger.
More than likely, you’ll probably have two parallel walls where you’ll NOT
have joists/trusses to securely fasten your top ledger. In these cases, use
1/8” x 3” Steel Mushroom-Head Toggle Bolts with 1/8” x 1” washers to securely
fasten your top ledger to your drywall ceiling (or any hardware capable of fastening
a 2x4 to drywall).
Video: For more clarication, visit www.archkit.com/top-reveal and watch our
“How-To” video which shows you how to eectively locate your joists/trusses.
6.
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